Innovative sets are part of Prada‘s tradition, and for this season, the Italian luxury house stayed consistent with this custom. Prada partnered with film director Nicolas Winding Refn to reimagine the Fondazione Prada, a location they’ve used season after season for their runway shows. This year’s project, called “Touch of Crude,” plays with themes of domestic voyeurism. With the room covered in brown carpeting and cloaked in black scrolls, the setting made for an uncanny backdrop for models to walk on a dimly-lit runway, as sinister sci-fi music droned in the background.
The show began as a sterile world of tailored beige and gray garments that resemble workers’ uniform one might find in Aldous Huxley’s “Brave New World.” The collection then eased into pops of color, notably with the handbags. Prada’s beloved triangle bags are doubled up this time, available in dusty pink or dazzling highlighter hues.
This concept of voyeurism was reinforced throughout the show: Models came out modestly clutching the front of their trench coats, which were layered atop classic Prada button-downs. Silks and satins with ombré tones featured rips along the legs, revealing a layer of undergarment. Clearly, layering is in full effect here, with panels of sheer fabric being used on outerwear pieces such as skirts, trenches and dresses, exposing the bare body beneath. The blurring of lines between nighties and daytime businesswear heightened the voyeuristic sentiment, as one is left wondering what we are meant to see and what not.
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Perhaps the most jarring part of the collection, however, is the sheer amount of skinny pants present. Love it or hate it, it seems like Prada is determined to bring back the trend. Skinny pants are a staple in Prada’s Spring 2023 wardrobe, paired with a variety of different styling options. Whether layered beneath trench coats and oversized blazers or with a matching, form-fitting button down, Prada gives us new ways of imagining businesswear chic. At one point in the show, a model even donned the trousers under a sheer knee-length tunic, a thought-provoking take on the dress-and-pants trend indeed. Throughout the presentation, nearly every look was accessorized with a pair of heeled Mary Janes.
See every look from Prada’s Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.
Homepage photo: Daniele Venturelli/WireImage